style

Chips 'easy as' Patterns

n the Netherlands brioche stitch and fisherman’s rib are both called patentsteek. The method of working the stitch is different but the end result is the same. This site will concern itself only with the brioche stitch, but I felt it was important to give the instructions for knitting fisherman’s rib since it is a member of the same family.

Abbreviations for working Fisherman’s Rib

k1b = knit stitch in row below, slipping the top stitch off the left needle without working it, it remains hanging over the worked stitch.

p1b = purl stitch in row below, slipping the top stitch off the left needle without working it, it remains hanging over the worked stitch.

Fisherman’s Rib Knit version – even number sts

Loosely cast on an even number of stitches.

Set-Up Row: knit all sts.

Row 1: *k1, k1b; rep from *.

Repeat Row 1.

Fisherman’s Rib Purl version – even number sts

Loosely cast on an even number of stitches.

Set-Up Row: purl all sts.

Row 1: *p1, p1b; rep from *.

Repeat Row 1.

 

And a video…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfbBK2j37jM

Dragonstooth Wrap

Mittens

Toe up socks

Swirly Beanie

No Sew Baby Jacket

Chip’s ‘Easy As’ Dragonstooth Wrap

 

I don’t wear much jewellery (a wedding ring and a Greenstone Roimata pendant, both given to me by my husband). But I do like to add a scarf or wrap to my outfit. It doesn’t matter about the time of year – in the summer, I’ll add a cotton or cobweb weight wrap, and in winter it will be something in alpaca.

Alpaca drapes beautifully. Use a light yarn weight (2 or 4 ply) for spring, autumn and those lovely winter days when the sun comes out. Or use a heavier yarn weight (my preference is DK) for those chillier days.

This pattern uses a bias design, with increases on every row on one side, and stepped decreases (to make the dragons teeth) on the other side. Stripes of garter and fishermans rib (or is it Brioche? I can’t tell the difference!!) provide the pattern. It works well with any yarn, and any yarn weight. Just adjust your needle diameter to suit. And you don’t have to be too accurate with the amount of yarn you have. Just keep knitting until your wrap is big enough, or you run out of yarn!

Rippingyarns, Chip’s ‘Easy As’ Dragonstooth Wrap

To make Wrap

 What you need

Yarn - 2 or 4 ply approx. 100g, DK approx. 150-200g.

Needles - 2 ply - 4mm, 4 ply – 5mm, DK – 7mm

wool / tapestry needle (for finishing)

The type and weight of yarn really doesn’t matter. But bear in mind, the yarn weight will affect the amount you need. The heavier it is, the more you’ll need to make your wrap.

To make a wrap that drapes well, use larger diameter needles.  The sizes above are just suggestions. If you haven’t got the size suggested, use a different size!

Either straight or circular needles can be used, to suit your style of knitting. I use circular, as for longer wraps, you can end up with a lot of stitches.

 

Tension

It really doesn’t matter – but keep it loose.

 

Abbreviations

K   Knit

P   Pearl

Kfb  knit 1 into front and back of a stitch; single knit increase

Dec decrease (any style. Suggestions are in the acknowledgements at the back)

k1b knit stitch in row below. (See ‘Fishermans Rib’ instruction page.)

Sts   stitches

YO  Yarn over

K2tog  Knit 2 together

 

 

Directions

 

Cast on 6 stitches

 

Garter stitch stripes

Row 1  K to last stitch, Kfb

Row 2  Kfb, P to end of row

Row 3  P to last stitch, Kfb

Row 4  Kfb, K to end of row

Repeat rows 1 to 4 two more times (12 rows in all)

 

Fishermans Rib stripes

Row 1  Cast off 6 stitches. K to last stitch, Kfb

Row 2  Kfb, P to end of row

Row 3  P1, *(K1 P1), repeat * to last st, Kfb

Row 4  Kfb, *(k1b, P1), repeat * to end

Row 5   P1, *(k1b, P1), repeat * to last st, Kfb

Repeat rows 4 & 5 five more times.

Row 16 Kfb, *(K1 P1), repeat * to end

Turn and cast off 6 stitches.

 

REPEAT Garter Stitch and Fisherman Rib stripes until your wrap is as long as you want it, or you run out of yarn!

 

ALTERNATIVE to Fishermans Rib stripes

To make a more open pattern (ideal for more lightweight wraps), REPLACE Fishermans Rib stripes as follows:

Row 1  Cast off 6 stitches. K to last stitch, Kfb

Row 2  Kfb, P to end of row

Row 3  K1, *(YO, K2tog), repeat * to last st, Kfb

Row 4  Kfb, P to end of row

Repeat rows 3 & 4 four more times.

Turn and cast off 6 stitches.

 

To knit Fishermans Rib

I cannot improve on this simple page of instructions, so replicate it, with acknowledgement to the Brioche Stitch website: http://www.briochestitch.com/archives/onecolorbrioche/fishermans-rib

Rippingyarns, chips 'Easy as" To knit Fishermans Rib

In the Netherlands brioche stitch and fisherman’s rib are both called patentsteek. The method of working the stitch is different but the end result is the same. This site will concern itself only with the brioche stitch, but I felt it was important to give the instructions for knitting fisherman’s rib since it is a member of the same family.

Abbreviations for working Fisherman’s Rib

k1b = knit stitch in row below, slipping the top stitch off the left needle without working it, it remains hanging over the worked stitch.

p1b = purl stitch in row below, slipping the top stitch off the left needle without working it, it remains hanging over the worked stitch.

Fisherman’s Rib Knit version – even number sts

Loosely cast on an even number of stitches.

Set-Up Row: knit all sts.

Row 1: *k1, k1b; rep from *.

Repeat Row 1.

Fisherman’s Rib Purl version – even number sts

Loosely cast on an even number of stitches.

Set-Up Row: purl all sts.

Row 1: *p1, p1b; rep from *.

Repeat Row 1.

 

And a video…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfbBK2j37jM

Chips 'easy as' Mittens

When I was 9 years old, we had an inspiring craft teacher at school. She taught us many things, including how to knit. By the time we went to high school we were knitting sweaters and cardigans.

After learning the  ‘basics’ lessons of garter stitch, stocking stitch and rib, one of the first things she gave us to knit was a pair of mittens.

I browsed the internet for a while trying to find a similar pattern, but most are knitted ‘in the round’, on 4 double-ended needles. This is fiddly, and not easy for new knitters.

So I decided to put my own ‘in the flat’ pattern together, knitted in double knitting / 8 ply yarn (alpaca, of course!!) on 2 straight needles with ends. At the end, a simple seam up the side and thumb completes the job.

RippingYarns,   Chips 'easy as' Mittens

To make Mittens

 What you need

75g double knitting wool

1 pair 4mm / size 8 needles

1 pair 3.25mm / size 10 needles

1 wool / tapestry needle (for finishing)

2 stitch markers (optional)

Tension

20 stitches in stocking stitch = 10 cm on 4mm / size 8 needles

Abbreviations

K   Knit

P   Pearl

M1  Make 1 stitch. Do this by picking up the horizontal yarn on the row below and putting 1 twist in it.

Sts   stitches

K2 tog  Knit 2 stitches together. With wool to the back, place the needle through the next 2 stitches at the same time from the bottom and knit.

K2 tog tbl  Knit 2 together through back loop. With wool to the back, place the needle through the next 2 stitches at the same time from the top, coming out behind the other needle then knit.

P2 tog Pearl 2 stitches together. With wool to the front, place the needle through the next 2 stitches at the same time from the top and pearl.

P2 tog tbl Pearl 2 together through back loop. With wool to the front, place the needle through the next 2 stitches at the same time from the bottom and back, coming out in front of the other needle then pearl.

Directions

Using 3.25mm / size 10 needles cast on 42 stitches

K1 (K2 P2) K1 rib for 22 rows

Using 4mm / size 8 needles

Row 1: Knit

Row 2 and every alternate row: Purl

Start increasing for thumb gusset

Row 3: K20 (place stitch marker). M1, K2, M1, (place stitch marker) K20 (44 sts)

Row 5: K20 (place stitch marker). M1, K4, M1, (place stitch marker) K20 (46 sts)

Row 7: K20 (place stitch marker). M1, K6, M1, (place stitch marker) K20 (48 sts)

Row 9: K20 (place stitch marker). M1, K8, M1, (place stitch marker) K20 (50 sts)

Row 11: K20 (place stitch marker). M1, K10, M1, (place stitch marker) K20 (52 sts)

Row 13: K20 (place stitch marker). M1, K12, M1, (place stitch marker) K20 (54 sts)

Rows 15-18: Stocking stitch (Knit on odd rows, Purl on even rows)

Make Thumb

Row 19: Knit 34 (turn)

Row 20: Cast on 1, Purl 14 (turn)

Row 21: Cast on 1, Knit 15 (turn)

Work on just these 16 stitches to make the thumb. *

Rows 22-34: Stocking Stitch (ending on Purl row)

Row 35: (K1, K2 tog) to last stitch, K1

Row 36 Pearl

Row 37: (K2 tog) to end

With tapestry needle, thread end trough stitches and gather.

Make Body

** With right side of work towards you, rejoin yarn at left hand side of thumb and K20.

There will now be 40 stitches on the needle, with the completed thumb in the middle.

Row 22: P20, cast on 2 stitches (over thumb), P20 (42 sts) ***

Rows 23-46: Stocking stitch

Shape Top

Row 47: K2, K2tog tbl, K14, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K14, K2tog tbl, K2 (38 sts)

Row 48: P2, P2tog, P12, P2tog tbl, P2, P2tog, P12, P2tog tbl, P2 (34 sts)

Row 49: K2, K2tog tbl, K10, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K10, K2tog tbl, K2 (30 sts)

Row 50: P2, P2tog, P8, P2tog tbl, P2, P2tog, P8, P2tog tbl, P2 (26 sts)

Row 51: K2, K2tog tbl, K6, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K6, K2tog tbl, K2 (22 sts)

Row 52: P2, P2tog, P4, P2tog tbl, P2, P2tog, P4, P2tog tbl, P2 (18 sts)

Cast off loosely

To Make Up

With end of yarn from top of thumb and right sides together, sew down thumb to where it meets the body.  Finish off by making sure that there are no holes between the thumb and the body.

With end of yarn from top of the body and right sides together, sew down body. With end of yarn on cuff sew up body.

To Make Second Mitten

Repeat!

 

 

To make Fingerless Mittens

The bottom part of these fingerless mittens are made in an identical way to the mittens, but the tops of the thumbs and body stop short and are finished in rib.

 What you need

50g double knitting wool

the same equipment as for the Mittens

Directions

Follow the mittens pattern to *

Complete Thumb

Rows 22-24: Stocking Stitch (ending on Purl row) (16 sts)

Change to size 3.25mm (no 10) needles

Row 25: (K2 P2) rib for 4 rows

Cast off

Make Body

Follow the mittens pattern from ** to *** (40 stitches)

Rows 23-32: Stocking stitch

Change to size 3.25mm (no 10) needles

Row 33: (K2 P2) rib for 4 rows

Cast Off

To Make Up

Make up as per mitten pattern.

 

 

Chips 'easy as' Toe up Socks

I was not very keen on knitting socks. They never fitted properly once I’d knitted them, and I always somehow or other managed to either run out of yarn or have loads left.

Then I discovered a ‘toe up’ pattern. You knitted the socks to fit your foot as you went, then carried on knitting to the height you wanted (or the yarn ran out). But there were a couple of techniques on the original pattern that I didn’t get along with.

So I decided to put my own pattern together, using my favourite techniques. There are ‘Youtube’ videos out there for most of the techniques I use, so if you struggle, go search for one. Or find a technique that suits you!

Rippingyarns, Chips 'easy as' Toe up Socks

Sock Basics

 What you need

Yarn – 100g for 1 pair of adult socks

Circular Knitting Needles – 2 to 3.25 mm for 4 ply (sport) or 3.25 to 4.5 for Double Knitting (light worsted)

1 wool / tapestry needle (for finishing)

2 stitch markers (optional)

The best yarn for day socks is 4ply (sport) weight sock yarn. This will be sheep or alpaca, with a small amount of nylon to make it harder wearing. For night socks, I use 100% Alpaca double knitting (light worsted).

The amount of yarn will depend on the size of the socks you knit. For an average adult, allow 100g.

I have never found double pointed needles easy, so I always use circular needles. We’ll be using the Magic Loop technique to knit our socks, so use needles that are at least 80 cm long. If you’re feeling really adventurous, you can knit two socks at the same time. However, I always seem to get my yarn tangled and spend too much time sorting it out, so I don’t bother.

Generally, use a small diameter needle to give a nice tight tension.

 

Tension

Knit a small tension sample of about 20 stitches x 10 rows, to give yourself a rough idea of the number of stitches to the 2 centimeter for your chosen yarn and needles.

 

Abbreviations

K   Knit

P   Pearl

M1  Make 1 stitch. Do this by picking up the horizontal yarn on the row below and putting 1 twist in it.

Sts   stitches

W&TK  Wrap & Turn Knitwise - slip next stitch purl wise, put yarn to front, slip stitch back onto left hand needle, put yarn to back, turn work.

W&TP  Wrap & Turn Purlwise - slip next stitch purl wise, put yarn to back, slip stitch back onto left hand needle, put yarn to front, turn work.

PM Place Marker

 

 

Element of a Sock

There are five elements to a sock; toe, foot, heel, leg, top. Each part taken on its own is easy to knit, and each can use different techniques. If you don’t like the technique I use then find one that suits you.

Toe

Looking straight down on our foot, we’re going to knit a flat-topped wedge for our toes.

Measure across the widest part of your foot then divide by three. This is approximately how wide we want the flat top to be.

From your tension sample, work out approximately how many stitches are needed for the flat top. (you don’t have to be accurate!) WRITE THIS NUMBER DOWN.

Using Judy Becker’s Magic Cast On technique (see internet links at the back of this pattern), cast on the number of stitches needed for the flat top on EACH needle on the circular knitting needles (so if you worked out you needed 10 stitches, you’ll end up with 20 stitches – 10 on each needle).

Judy’s instructions use the Magic Loop technique for circular knitting; if you’re struggling then there are some more internet links at the back of this pattern.

Round 1 – knit 1 round, as per Judy Becker’s Magic Cast On instructions, making sure to knit into the BACK of the stitch on the second needle, to take the twist out of the stitches.

Round 2 – Needle 1 - K1, M1, knit to one stitch from the end, M1, K1. PM. Needle 2 - K1, M1, knit to one stitch from the end, M1, K1. PM. (note – markers are optional)

Round 3 – knit 1 round, transferring markers if you are using them.

REPEAT rounds 2 and 3 until the toe of the sock is as wide as your foot. (this will be approximately 3 times the number of stitches that you started with – but the fit is more important than the number)

 

Foot

Knit in the round with no increases or decreases until the sock is as long as your own foot to the back of your instep.

You can knit any pattern you like on the top of the sock, but leave the bottom in stocking stitch, for comfort.

 

Heel

This pattern uses a Wrap and Turn Short Row Heel. If you want, another style of short row heel could be used – it’s up to you 😊.

The heel is worked on just the stitches on the underside of the foot. It is shaped by decreasing by one the number of stitches knitted on each row (whilst keeping the unknitted stitches on the needle; they are not cast off), then reversing the process by increasing by one the number of stitches knitted until all the stitches are back in play.

To stop unnecessary small holes appearing along the centre line, we’re going to add a ‘wrap’ after each final stitch knitted on a row. This binds the two halves of the heel together more tightly. (I see that one of the videos I’ve chosen wrap slightly differently; it doesn’t matter – it’s the wrapping of the stitch that matters.)

I also find it handy to have a pen and paper available here, to keep a note of where I am in the increasing and decreasing.

The front to the back of the heel will be about as long as the length of the toe.

Working on just the stitches on the needle for the bottom of the foot:

Decrease heel

Row 1 – K to last stitch. W&TK.

Row 2 – P to last stitch. W&TP.

Row 3 – K to stitch before last W&TK. W&TK.

Row 4 – P to stitch before last W&TP. W&TP.

Continue with rows 3 & 4 until you have the same number of stitches left to knit as the number you wrote down for the flat top of the toe. End with a purl row.

Increase heel

Row 1 - slip just-wrapped stitch. k to last W&TK, W&TK (wrapped stitch will have 2 wraps).

Row 2 - slip just-wrapped stitch. p to last W&TP, W&TP (wrapped stitch will have 2 wraps).

Row 3 – slip just wrapped stitch. K to last W&TK, K1, W&TK

Row 4 – slip just wrapped stitch. P to last W&TP, P1, W&TP

Continue with rows 3 & 4 until all the stitches are back into play. End with a purl row.

 

Leg

Knit in the round with no increases or decreases until the sock is as long as you want it to be, less 2cm.

You can knit any pattern you like.

 

Top

Knit in the round for 2cm (or more, if you prefer) with no increases or decreases in K1 P1 rib.

Bind/Cast Off using Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off technique.

It’s important to use a stretchy bind/cast off technique, as it makes the sock easier to put on and take off.

Finishing

Sew in any ends with the tapestry needle.

 

 

Internet Links and Acknowledgements

My starting inspiration for this sock pattern came from two main sources;

Lifestyle Toe Up Socks – No Swatch Needed (Charisa Martin Cairn) – from Ravelry.com

Just Your Basic Baby Socks (Patti Pierce Stone) – from Ravelry.com

 

The notes refer to the following techniques:

 

Judy Becker’s Magic Cast On

Printed instructions - http://knitty.com/ISSUEspring06/FEATmagiccaston.html

Video including Magic Loop (continental style) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T89N6C_H0vg

Video including Magic Loop (UK style) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GV9UaFgZ6Q0

 

Short row heel with wrap and turn

Printed instructions - http://www.thechillydog.com/2016/11/knitting-wrap-and-turn-short-row-heels.html

Video (continental style) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WNdZOhYF5V0

Video (UK style) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Os1aDRdI_w

 

 

Jeny’s surprisingly stretchy bind off

Printed instructions - http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall09/FEATjssbo.php

Video  (continental style) – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XuEvgZ69JeM

Video (UK style) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53Mtbkyf5CQ

 

Knit two socks at the same time

Video (continental style) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1XWE7IRC0Q

Although this video shows a continental style knitter, the casting on is the same, regardless of your own technique. Just swop to your own style for row 1 onwards… It also shows a slightly different way of casting on with the Judy Becker Cast On. Well worth a watch!

Chip’s ‘Easy As’ Swirly Beanie

 

Want an easy to knit beanie that looks amazing? Try this Swirly Beanie.

It’s just right when knitted in Ripping Yarns hand dyed 90% Alpaca/10% Wool Double Knitting yarn on 4.5mm circular needles, and you’ll use less than 100g of yarn.

Worried about using circular needles to knit in the round? Don’t be! There’s online links showing you how to use the Magic Loop technique. It’s life (well, knitting) changing…..

To make Hat

 

 

 What you need

 

Yarn – DK - approx. 100g.

 

Needles – Circular – 4.5mm (US 7) (don’t worry about the length, but if you’re using the Magic Loop technique then I prefer at least 100 cm)

 

Stitch Markers – 4 (large safety pins will do nicely)

 

Yarn / tapestry needle (for finishing)

 

 

Tension

It really doesn’t matter too much – the hat stretches.

 

Sizes

I’ve sized the pattern for small, medium and large. But it’s stretchy – so you’ll get away with knitting the wrong size! Knit a medium (shown in bold) if you have an average head.

 

Abbreviations

K   Knit

K2tog  Knit 2 together

P   Pearl

PM  Place marker

SM  Slip Marker

Sts   stitches

 

Directions

Cast on (100, 120, 140) stitches using a stretchy cast on (see below).

Join in the round (see Magic Loop technique below).

Work body of hat - 20 cm of K3 P2 rib. Make sure you end with 2P.

Start decreasing as follows:

First round – *(K3 P2) x (3, 4, 5), K3, P1, K2tog, PM, K2, P2*,  repeat  *..* four times.

Second and subsequent rounds – **K3 P2 rib until 2 stitches before the marker, K2tog, SM, K2 P2**.

Repeat **..** until 12 stitches remain.

Break yarn. Using the tapestry needle, thread it through the remaining stitches. Pull tight and finish off.

 

Technique References

 

Stretchy Cast Ons

I do a long tail cast on.

Acknowledgement to Wikihow…

https://www.wikihow.com/Do-the-Long-Tail-Cast-On

 

 Magic Loop Technique

I can knit baby socks on 120cm circular needles using this technique. You’ll never need double pointed needles again…..

Acknowledgement to Tin Can Knits…

https://blog.tincanknits.com/2013/10/03/magic-loop/

 

Chip’s ‘Easy As’ No Sew Baby Jacket

 

I love knitting – but hate sewing it up at the end. So this little jacket is perfect for me. Apart from sewing in ends and buttons, there are no seams to join.

Knit it in Ripping Yarns hand dyed 90% Alpaca/10% Wool Double Knitting yarn for a truly unique jacket for your baby or toddler.

To make Jacket

 What you need

double knitting wool – Premature (Newborn, 0-3 months,  3-6 months, 9-12 months, 1-2 years) – 50g (100g, 100g, 150g, 150g, 200g)

6 buttons

1 pair 4mm round knitting needles

1 wool / tapestry needle (for finishing)

4 stitch markers (optional, but recommended -  a suitably sized safety pin works well)

1 tape measure (for measuring as you knit)

Tension

22 stitches in stocking stitch = 10 cm (4”) on 4.5mm diameter needles.

Abbreviations

K   Knit

P   Pearl

M1  Make 1 stitch. Do this by picking up the horizontal yarn on the row below onto the left hand needle, then knit it.

Kfb  Make 1 stitch. Do this by knitting into the front of the loop of the next stitch, then without dropping the stitch off the needle, knitting into the back of the loop.

Sts   Stitches

YO Yarn over. With yarn to the back, bring the yarn forward over the right hand needle to make an extra stitch. (in this pattern, this will be followed by a K2 tog to make a buttonhole)

K2 tog  Knit 2 stitches together. With yarn to the back, place the needle through the next 2 stitches at the same time from the bottom and knit.

PM Place marker. Place a stitch marker onto the right hand needle.

SM Slip marker. Slip the stitch marker from the left hand to the right hand needle.

RM Remove marker.

WS Wrong side

RS Right side

Directions

 

Neck

Cast On

45 ( 50 , 53 , 58 , 61 , 64 )  sts using a stretchy cast on

Row 1

Knit to the end

Work row 1

2 ( 2 , 2 , 4 , 4 , 4 ) more times

Row 2:

(RS) (Buttonhole Row)   Knit 2 ( 2 , 2 , 3 , 3 , 3 ) , YO, K2tog, knit to the end

Row 3:

(WS) (Setup Row)  knit 4 ( 5 , 6 , 7 , 8 , 9 ) , Kfb , Knit 4 ( 4 , 4 , 4 , 4 , 4 ) , PM , knit    6 ( 7 , 7 , 8 , 8 , 8 ) , PM , knit    5 ( 5 , 5 , 5 , 5 , 5 ) , Kfb , knit    3 ( 4 , 5 , 6 , 7 , 8 ) , Kfb , knit    5 ( 5 , 5 , 5 , 5 , 5 ) , PM , knit    6 ( 7 , 7 , 8 , 8 , 8 ) , PM , Knit    4 ( 4 , 4 , 4 , 4 , 4 ) , Kfb , knit    4 ( 5 , 6 , 7 , 8 , 9 ) ,

 

(Total sts    49 ( 54 , 57 , 62 , 65 , 68 ) )

To Underarm

 

Row 4:

(RS) (Knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, M1, K1, SM, K1, M1*) work * 4 times, knit to the end (8 stitches increased)

Row 5:

(WS) knit  4 ( 4 , 5 , 5 , 6 , 6 ) , purl to the last 4 ( 4 , 5 , 5 , 6 , 6 ) stitches, knit 4 ( 4 , 5 , 5 , 6 , 6 )

Work rows 4 and 5

2 ( 3 , 4 , 5 , 6 , 7 ) more times

Row 6:

(RS) (Buttonhole Row) Knit 2 ( 2 , 2 , 3 , 3 , 3 ) , YO, K2tog, (Knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, M1, K1, Sm, K1, M1)* work * 4 times, knit to the end (8 stitches increased).

Row 7:

(WS) knit  4 ( 4 , 5 , 5 , 6 , 6 ) , purl to the last 4 ( 4 , 5 , 5 , 6 , 6 ) stitches, knit 4 ( 4 , 5 , 5 , 6 , 6 )

Work rows 4 and 5

3 ( 4 , 5 , 6 , 7 , 8 ) more times

Work rows 6 and 7

1 more time.

 

(Total sts    113 ( 134 , 153 , 174 , 193 , 212 ) )

 

(Total raglan increases   8 ( 10 , 12 , 14 , 16 , 18 ) )

Row 8

Knit to the end

Row 9

(WS) knit  4 ( 4 , 5 , 5 , 6 , 6 ) , purl to the last 4 ( 4 , 5 , 5 , 6 , 6 ) stitches, knit 4 ( 4 , 5 , 5 , 6 , 6 )

Work rows 8 and 9

0 ( 1 , 1 , 2 , 2 , 3 ) more times

Divide for the Body

 

Row 10:

knit 18 ( 21 , 24 , 27 , 30 , 33 ) stitches (to the first marker) , RM , Slip the next  22 ( 27 , 31 , 36 , 40 , 44 ) stitches (up to the next marker) on to a stitch holder , RM , knit    33 ( 38 , 43 , 48 , 53 , 58 ) stitches (to the next marker) , RM , Slip the next  22 ( 27 , 31 , 36 , 40 , 44 ) stitches (up to the next marker) on to a stitch holder , RM , knit 18 ( 21 , 24 , 27 , 30 , 33 ) stitches (to the last marker) , RM ,

Row 11:

(WS) knit  4 ( 4 , 5 , 5 , 6 , 6 ) , purl to the last 4 ( 4 , 5 , 5 , 6 , 6 ) stitches, knit 4 ( 4 , 5 , 5 , 6 , 6 )

 

(Total sts on body    69 ( 80 , 91 , 102 , 113 , 124 ) )

Knit Body

 

Row 12:

(RS) Knit all stitches

Row 13:

(WS) knit  4 ( 4 , 5 , 5 , 6 , 6 ) , purl to the last 4 ( 4 , 5 , 5 , 6 , 6 ) stitches, knit 4 ( 4 , 5 , 5 , 6 , 6 )

Work rows 12 and 13

0 ( 0 , 1 , 1 , 2 , 2 ) more times

Row 14:

(RS) (Buttonhole Row)   Knit 2 ( 2 , 2 , 3 , 3 , 3 ) , YO, K2tog, knit to the end

Row 15:

(WS) knit  4 ( 4 , 5 , 5 , 6 , 6 ) , purl to the last 4 ( 4 , 5 , 5 , 6 , 6 ) stitches, knit 4 ( 4 , 5 , 5 , 6 , 6 )

Work rows 12 and 13

3 ( 4 , 5 , 6 , 7 , 8 ) more times

Work rows 14 and 15

1 more time

(If you want to increase the body length by one button holes worth then repeat this section)

Work rows 12 and 13

1 ( 2 , 3 , 4 , 5 , 6 ) more times

Hem

 

Row 16:

(RS) Knit all stitches

Row 17:

(WS) Knit all stitches

Work rows 16 and 17

1 more time

Row 18:

(RS) (Buttonhole Row)   Knit 2 ( 2 , 2 , 3 , 3 , 3 ) , YO, K2tog, knit to the end

Row 19:

(WS) Knit all stitches

Work rows 16 and 17

1 ( 1 , 2 , 2 , 3 , 3 ) more times

Cast off

using a stretchy cast off

Sleeves

 

Starting under the arm

Pick up 1 ( 1 , 1 , 2 , 2 , 2 )  stitch. Slip all the stitches back onto a circular needle. Pick up 1 ( 1 , 1 , 2 , 2 , 2 )  stitch. PM.

 

(Total sts    24 ( 29 , 33 , 40 , 44 , 48 ) )

Use the Magic Loop technique

Row 20:

knit in the round

For short sleeves

0

Work row 20 for

1 ( 1 , 2 , 2 , 3 , 3 ) more rows in the round only

For long sleeves

0

Work row 20 for

15 ( 18 , 21 , 25 , 30 , 35 ) rows in the round (or until the required length)

Row 21:

purl in the round

Work rows 20 and 21

2 ( 3 , 3 , 4 , 4 , 5 ) more times

Cast off

using a stretchy cast off

Repeat for second sleeve

 

Finishing Weave in your end, sew the buttons on, block and enjoy!

 

Sizing

Measurements (approx)

premature

newborn

0-3 months

3-6 months

9-12 months

1-2 years

Chest (cm)

32.0, 37.1, 42.3, 47.4, 52.5, 57.6

 

Chest (inches)

12.6, 14.6, 16.6, 18.6, 20.7, 22.7

 

sleeve round (cm)

10.2, 12.5, 14.4, 16.7, 18.6, 20.4

 

sleeve round (inches)

4.0, 4.9, 5.7, 6.6, 7.3, 8.0

 

neck to underarm (cm)

8.2, 10.4, 11.8, 14.0, 15.4, 17.6

 

neck to underarm (inches)

3.2, 4.1, 4.7, 5.5, 6.1, 6.9

 

neck to cuff (cm)

16.1, 20.1, 22.6, 26.9, 30.1, 34.8

 

neck to cuff (inches)

6.4, 7.9, 8.9, 10.6, 11.9, 13.7

 

neck to hem (cm)

16.8, 20.4, 24.7, 28.3, 32.6, 36.2

 

neck to hem (inches)

6.6, 8.0, 9.7, 11.1, 12.8, 14.3

 

References

Stretchy Cast On - See Wikihow - https://www.wikihow.com/Do-the-Long-Tail-Cast-On

Stretchy Cast Off - See Craftsy - https://www.craftsy.com/knitting/article/super-stretchy-bind-off/

Magic Loop - See My Blueprint - https://www.mybluprint.com/article/the-knitting-method-thats-totally-magic